The Misses Slightly Surpass the Hits at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2022
After a marathon of shows and lookbook releases, fashion month is now over. Paris Fashion Week Fall 2022 was truly something to behold. It’s all thanks to the designers demonstrating more creativity and resilience than ever before.
First up was Off-White where the in-house design team and superstar cast payed tribute to Virgil Abloh. Maria Grazia Chiuri offered up perhaps her most experimental collection for Christian Dior yet. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello layered dresses with strong-shouldered faux fur coats and killer heels. Olivier Rousteing mixed some of Balmain‘s earliest codes with protective gear, while Gabriela Hearst gave us chic tailoring, hiking boots and recycled cashmere ponchos via Chloe. Jonathan Anderson stimulated our senses with leather, felt, latex, 3-D-printed fiber and sophisticated design motifs at Loewe’s spectacular show.
The hottest ticket in town was arguably Balenciaga where Demna Gvasalia dedicated the collection to fearlessness, resistance and victory of love and peace in solidarity with Ukraine. Valentino focused on neon pink. Moving from its usual location, Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton show was held at the magnificent Musée d’Orsay as all of his muses seated in the front row digested the mix of suiting, dresses and knitwear. The entire Chanel show centered around tweed as Virginie Viard found inspiration from England during the 60s. Barely-there miniskirts are here to stay, at least according to Miuccia Prada. She also gave us micro shorts at Miu Miu rounding out the week in style.
Scroll down to see our forum members’ unbiased take on Paris Fashion Week Fall 2022.
HIT: Louis Vuitton
"A lovely collection from Nicolas Ghesquière. Some fabulous pants and jackets as usual, very beautifully styled... The bags are great too and I loved the boots." [Lola701]
"I love this so much, easily one of my favorite collections this season. The styling works for the clothes and does not fight against them." [THD96]
"I find this collection much more digestible and easy to love than many of his recent outings. I really like the menswear-inspired looks. Some fabulous jackets and great boots as well." [toffie]
See all the looks from the Louis Vuitton collection.
"Incredible how unattractive and undesirable this is. Everything looks old, not old-fashioned, but just old, dusty, worn out. It's as if one of the design assistants raided the closet of a long dead auntie." [avonlea002]
"Vintage in a bad way. Everything is so obvious in this collection and fashion is literally nonexistent there." [perhydrol]
"Another dated-looking collection from Virginie Viard." [Nomar]
See all the looks from the Chanel collection.
HIT: Saint Laurent
"This collection is everything I love about fashion and clothes. Not a bad thing in the whole show." [GivenchyAddict]
"Stunning! Probably Anthony Vaccarello's best collection ever! The real success of this collection is that Anthony has for the first time evoked sensuality. This was a very sensual collection. This is a luxury that doesn’t hide itself and I love that. Standing ovation completely deserved!" [Lola701]
"Gorgeous! Loved this collection!" [Salvatore]
See all the looks from the Saint Laurent collection.
"When you've run out of ideas for design so you resort to cheap gimmicks to be 'different'." [Nomar]
"What an aggressive shade of pink! I expected different shades of pink and not pieces styled together in one shade of pink." [Lola701]
"So tacky. So cheap. So pedestrian." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Valentino collection.
"This show was not about the clothes, it's about a message. A state of being. A struggle. An invocation." [FashionFanatico]
"Fashion, fashion, fashion. Absolutely loved it. The movement, the excitement, the grittiness of it all. He is the designer of the moment." [Fulton St Critique]
"EPIC presentation. Wow. I don't think I've ever seen anything like it. That blue gown to close was a moment." [MyNameIs]
See all the looks from the Balenciaga collection.
MISS: Christian Dior
"It’s persistently uncool. She tries and tries. It’s overworked, tortured and exceptionally badly styled. It lacks the spirit of Dior and builds on the frail, shaky identity she’s trying to assert. It’s really quite awful." [Norden]
"Maria Grazia Chiuri really is good. Good at finding new lows to add to her career at Christian Dior. This is just really bad." [Mrs.T]
"I think it's her worst collection to date. It's not even that ugly per se, even if that first look is just completely irrelevant and a waste of resources. It's the inconsistency of this show that makes it insufferable. Maria Grazia Chiuri had so many ideas and none of them hit the mark." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Christian Dior collection.
HIT: Dries Van Noten
"Wow, so sexy it needed a show." [brandon J pierre]
"Really missed seeing a show. Some of the jackets are perfection." [Not Plain Jane]
"I would love to spend hours combing through each of these pieces individually. His prints were great. That one dalmatian spotted coat was a standout and I loved his use of contrasting as it pertains to color. Only Dries can make gold and pink work so well together." [Fulton St Critique]
See all the looks from the Dries Van Noten collection.
MISS: Miu Miu
"A collection of leftovers?" [Lola701]
"This collection takes away the impact of last season and the mini. I've never known Miuccia Prada to really push the same idea the following season. I'm disappointed." [reese06]
"If this was a resort or pre-fall collection I could accept. There’s really no substance..." [GERGIN]
See all the looks from the Miu Miu collection.
"Jonathan Anderson keeps surpassing himself each collection and wowing all of us at the same time." [Ruito]
"Rarely these days does a show inspire me to spend real time pouring over the details, but this one did. Almost none of this is what I'd consider to my taste, but the combination of wacky and sophistication is just so fun. Really enjoying Loewe lately." [KINGofVERSAILLES]
"The lips dresses, the shoes inside the dresses, the draping and the silhouettes are all fantastic. Great color palette, too." [gossiping]
See all the looks from the Loewe collection.
MISS: Stella McCartney
"Probably her worst collection. She really needs to go back to her fundamentals." [Lola701]
"If she cares so much about the planet, she should stop doing these clothes that no one wants." [GivenchyAddict]
"Incoherent, some looks seem thrown together at the last minute. Some of the tailoring and the gathered cape dresses are good, but all of the prints are nothing short of hideous, I don’t know how she thought it was a good idea to include them." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Stella McCartney collection.
HIT: Elie Saab
"As always, pretty." [lightblue]
"Never met an Elie Saab collection I didn't like to be completely honest and this is no exception. It's gorgeous and the color palette is sublime, love that vibrant shade of purple splashed throughout the collection and I love the use of feathers." [vogue28]
"Beautiful, can't wait to see some of those last dresses on the red carpet." [Urban Stylin]
See all the looks from the Elie Saab collection.
"Very passé, very dated… Very Rad Hourani/Gareth Pugh from more than 10 years ago. No vision at all. The Balmain woman/man is definitely a fashion victim." [Lola701]
"Those garments with that casting made me feel like I was watching a H&M show, not a show of that which used to be a storied haute couture house. I truly feel Olivier Rousteing has lost that thing that made Balmain interesting and luxurious." [Salvatore]
"Olivier Rousteing truly lost me with this collection and I am also starting to feel he's hit his creative peak at Balmain. This just brings nothing new to the table, is drastically subpar compared to previous seasons and I'm seeing more Julien Macdonald than Balmain. A massive, truly massive miss." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Balmain collection.
HIT: Rick Owens
"Great collection, it always takes you away to another place." [gossiping]
"This was a magnificent collection from Rick Owens! It felt a little more polished and accessible than his previous outings, I loved the coats that looked like they had boas or anacondas twirling around the models' necks." [Ruito]
"One of his better shows in a long time. The first half is really strong...reminds me of his more glamorous, luxurious collections from the mid 2000s (his strongest period)." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Rick Owens collection.
"I don't see Chloe, I'm still seeing Gabriela Hearst in Paris." [THD96]
"Her clothes are so two-dimensional. They have no soul." [dior_couture1245]
"The clothes look incredibly cheap, from the pleather-looking jackets, drab Salvation Army ponchos, ugly knits and sloppy tailoring." [disco54]
See all the looks from the Chloe collection.
"Chitose Abe's best collection in a long time... Mostly because she eliminated all her gimmicks and concentrated on one silhouette. Her clothes have never looked lighter than this and the result is that it’s absolutely desirable!" [Lola701]
"Glad she got over her 'hybrid' clothing phase. The red trench is amazing." [RedSmokeRise]
"Wow! This show is the star of PFW. I'm not seeing a single weak piece here. And it's all very cohesive and tightly edited. Big round of applause for her and her team." [eugenius]
See all the looks from the Sacai collection.
MISS: Isabel Marant
"Nothing desirable at all." [WAVES]
"Those boots are simply awful...not to mention the 'fun' fur." [Not Plain Jane]
"Not to be mean, but who buys the label? I live in Paris, I am in my mid 30s and no one around me cares or buys it. It's really invisible. They don't have a signature It bag and their fugly sneakers happened a decade ago." [IloveDiorHomme]
See all the looks from the Isabel Marant collection.
HIT: Olivier Theyskens
"Such a delicious collection. Bravo!" [helmutnotdead]
"So dreamy! Even without models and a stage, he manages to let us peek into the world the Theyskens' woman inhabits. The stringy, wet look of the mannequin's hair makes me think she ran through a foggy forest during a rainy day. Maybe she lives there. Maybe she's a fantastical being cast into the wilderness." [Machinegumm]
"Perfection. Even better than last season and the variety is magnificent. It's absolutely perfect." [dior_couture1245]
See all the looks from the Olivier Theyskens collection.
"A disaster." [Steddycam91]
"The audience's reaction at the end of the collection seems to summarize what we are all collectively thinking — what was that? There is nothing aspirational here. No student will look to this for inspiration." [Fulton St Critique]
"It's a jumbled mess that could've been edited down by half." [Br3ncon1]
See all the looks from the Off-White collection.
HIT: Issey Miyake
"Easy, breezy, beautiful cover-you-up clothing. I'm sold." [eugenius]
"This is just perfection." [Not Plain Jane]
"That magenta dress is just marvelous! Very nice collection, in spite of its simplicity it keeps you engaged with its vibrant use of color and strong silhouettes. Very underrated brand." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Issey Miyake collection.
"This is probably the blandest and most uninteresting designer pairing ever. Literally nobody cares about this brand. What a joke." [GivenchyHomme]
"This was so incredibly messy. This collection goes all over the place, so many looks did not fit properly or looked badly constructed — or just cheap." [toffie]
"Those last looks are the ultimate proof that Matthew Williams should never be allowed to do anything couture-related. He just doesn't have a designer's eye and his silhouettes are always uncomfortable to look at." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Givenchy collection.
HIT: Alexandre Vauthier
"This collection is really strong and some of the looks made me think of Alaïa, in a good way." [perhydrol]
"Obsessed, just as much as I thought I would be! I am especially a fan of the Alaïa-esque cut-out detailing and that red patent leather jacket dress is nothing short of fabulous. My favorite look from the entire collection without a doubt." [vogue28]
See all the looks from the Alexandre Vauthier collection.
"It’s unbelievably bad. The entire collection is an identity crisis — is it trying to be fierce? Edgy? Quirky? Sharp? Soft? It’s psychotic. And ugly." [dior_couture1245]
"I think it's Bruno Sialelli's worst collection so far. There are too many ideas and in my opinion, they were already too commercialized to be interesting as runway looks. Some of the looks were also completely out of place in the context of this brand." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Lanvin collection.
"I quite like this! A dark romanticism about this." [disco54]
"This is better than his debut. I'm glad that Charles de Vilmorin is actually putting effort into designing real clothes and didn't turn this brand into his personal experimental project." [THD96]
"I kind of liked the first collection in spite of its obvious flaws and I like this one even better. It seems clearer and less thrown together." [donyan]
See all the looks from the Rochas collection.
MISS: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
"This is just stuff. I don't even know where the fabric stops and the silhouette begins." [Cocteau Stone]
"I truly cannot look at their collections together anymore! It's just visual noise." [RedSmokeRise]
"Good thing I have the Vivienne Westwood catwalk book to remind myself of the glory days of this brand and hopefully forget the bunch of nonsense Andreas is so insistent in staging." [YohjiAddict]
See all the looks from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood collection.
MISS: Ann Demeulemeester
"So boring! I don’t know how they had the nerve of bringing an audience to watch this monotone procession of soulless clothes. Where’s the poetry that made Ann Demeulemeester so recognizable? The mystery? The romance?" [YohjiAddict]
"This is the most bare bones collection. No theme, no ideas, not even interesting accessories." [Machinegumm]
"The spirit of Ann D vanished the day she retired as the brand's lead designer. Clearly when one person was as intertwined with the label's DNA as Ann was that is going to happen." [Fulton St Critique]
See all the looks from the Ann Demeulemeester collection.
MISS: Marine Serre
"What's the name of the collection...Multiple Personality Disorder?" [jeanclaude]
"Tough to watch. I liked a few dresses and one coat, the rest was either under or over designed, rarely a good medium existed. This was a prime example of throw sh*t on the wall and hope something sticks, unfortunately for Marine, mostly everything came crashing to the floor." [Fulton St Critique]
"Her collections a couple of years ago were fantastic. This is a waste!" [gossiping]
See all the looks from the Marine Serre collection.
MISS: Ludovic de Saint Sernin
"Very badly made. I cannot wait to see his 15 minutes end." [YohjiAddict]
"He is treating himself so seriously it's almost entertaining. Unbearable." [Olaffo]
"All I have to say is as soon as Instagram moves on to another aesthetic, his brand will be dead. And I won't be sad at all." [perhydrol]
See all the looks from the Ludovic de Saint Sernin collection.
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