News & Runway

Rick Owens Spring 2012 Runway Review

Rick Owens is one of those designers where you know what you’re going to be seeing but are still surprised by the shape of the show. Owens fans flock to him for his impeccably draped leather jackets and strapped wedge boots, and he delivered on both accounts this season, but he also showed a softer side that, while maintaining his gothic and extremist aesthetic, was absolutely wearable. Silhouettes were slim but not suffocating, once again separating himself from the hoards of conceptual designers that believe a woman has to be bound by PVC into an unrecognizable body shape to be radical and avant-garde. Owens noted that he resents the extreme fashions shown by some of his peers; it’s his belief that subversive fashion should be wearable, and it shows in this collection.

The palette was white, grey, and black, with a section of warm terra cotta colored looks in the middle. His cuts were elegant and thoughtful, similar to the ones we saw last season. Critics were amazed last season by Owens' continued pursuit of proportion and balance without losing the aesthetic that has carved out his own signature market. Where Rick Owens succeeds the most is in his conceptualization. His brand's identity is so sincere and so thoughtfully executed that it could be the most simple white shirt and you could still tell that it was made by Rick Owens; it's the trademark of a true visionary.