News & Runway

Proenza Schouler Spring 2012 Runway Review

In light of their penchant for neon in their last Spring collection it was surprising, especially considering the running trend this season for brights, that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s Spring 2012 Proenza Schouler collection felt more Fall than Spring. In a preview, the designers told WWD that they were inspired by 1950s car interiors, Googie architecture, and architect Morris Lapidus, who designed the Fontainebleu Hotel in Miami. “You know, all that questionable taste architecture,” said Hernandez. There was nothing questionable, however, about the fantastic geometric designs and expert color usage in the streamlined, sophisticated collection the duo presented.

The collection – from the short bottom suits that opened, to the backless dresses that closed, with cut-out and eel-skin dresses, cropped sweaters, and dainty menswear-inspired tops in between – delivered a spot-on alternative to the in-your-face-prints and parade of colorful designs we’ve been seeing so far this season. Leave it to McCollough and Hernandez to work in prints, even of the floral, tiger, and fruit variety, with nods to Art Deco colorways, without it feeling hackneyed or dated.

As for the shoes, they were clog-like with wooden platforms while the crochet handbags could be giving their PS1 bags a serious run for their money next season.