News & Runway

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Fall 2010

It’s interesting to compare John Galliano’s collection for Christian Dior and Alexis Mabille’s namesake couture collection.

Both designers presented their Fall 2010 couture collections on the same day, but couldn’t be any more different (and not just because of the disproportionate resources that Galliano has over Mabille).

For many, couture conjures up high-drama, towering hair, saturated and bold make-up, and endless yards of fabric fashioned into outlandish dramatic looks. 

But Mabille has once again shown that couture can take on a decidedly more ready-to-wear feel without sacrificing an inch in its appeal. In fact, sometimes a look only requires a swish of crimson red lipstick.

The young couturier’s 15 piece collection was heavily focused on separates (at least when compared to most of his fellow couturiers), and with their traditional bow and flower appliqué accents, veered on a more versatile, wearable side.

That said, there was nothing mundane or everyday about any of the looks the designer showcased. Delicately beaded bodices, over-layed fabrics, lush embroidery, ribbon trimming, and silk velvet combos made for showpieces that could stand up next to most any ball gown.

While I love looking at the elaborate styling, make-up, hair, and set design that come with the shows put on by conglomerate-backed designers, it’s a relief to know that there are still young designers on the fashion scene who are making it work without relying on extra frills.  

Mabille is still working his way up the fashion ladder, but he’s already shown hints of Lacroix and Tisci in his work, making him one of the more exciting designers to watch.