Last night at the Park Avenue Armory, Marc Jacobs (the man) celebrated a quarter-century of Marc Jacobs (the brand). (Yes, it’s been 25 years since Neville’s dad designed his grunge-inspired Perry Ellis collection, got fired and launched his solo career in Spring 1993.) Prior to the show, Jacobs made it very clear this was not a goodbye. Still, it being a major anniversary and all, the designer paid homage to some of his greatest hits: giant daisies, weekender bags and, most noticeably, the luxe silk turbans that sat atop his (notably racially diverse) models’ heads.
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The Stephen Jones-designed turbans — some metallic, some accented by glittery brooches, all meticulously coordinated with their wearer’s ensembles — were a reference to Kate Moss’s iconic 2009 Met Gala look, explained Jacobs in the show notes. 2009 was the year the British supermodel and celebrated American designer (along with Anna Wintour and Justin Timberlake) co-hosted the annual, hyper-exclusive affair. The duo definitely fit the bill (the theme was “Model as Muse”). To ensure his model muse would be the most looked-upon lady in the room, Jacobs dressed Moss in a gilded, turban-topped get-up.
Further turban inspo came courtesy of another well-known Jacobs muse, director Sofia Coppola. The Beguiled director recently covered WSJ Magazine’s June/July 2017 issue in a retro red head wrap. Inside, the Steven Miesel-lensed cover shoot featured many more glam turbaned moments. (The glittery number below is by Kokin.)
In a year that’s witnessed a ban on Muslim immigrants and the repeal of DACA, it does seem a bit perfunctory to put models in turbans, credit two white women and yet fail to not mention the head wrap’s African and religious roots. On Instagram stories, the Cut’s Lindsay Peoples questioned: “How many African and/or Muslim models were booked for this show? And I mean besides Hadid sisters because they’re literally in everything.” The answer? A lot. Jacobs’ inclusivity, coupled with the fact that turbans are a known symbol of Old Hollywood glam — Elizabeth Taylor and Marlene Dietrich were big fans — seems to have gotten him a pass. (Such was not the case when Jacobs put models in “raver-inspired” dreadlocks a year prior. Then, he got roasted by the media.)
What did you think of the headpieces? Before you decide, click through the slideshow below for a close-up look at Stephen Jones, Marc Jacobs and Katie Grand’s turbaned Spring 2018 girls.
[ via Vogue ]