Bora Aksu has lurked as a silent, but salient force on the London indie scene for the past several seasons, but for Spring 2010, the Turkish born designer presented a darkly romantic, well-edited collection that is making Fashion Week headlines. Inspired by Oscar Wilde’s subversion of Victoriana, Aksu created exquisite body-con dresses that were nightmarishly beautiful.
Like with Rodarte, the concept of a dark secret or poisoned femininity was at the collection’s core: pink and white lace was embellished by black silk drapery, making the overall palette and mood slightly more unsettled, even elegantly morbid. The Rodarte effect also came into play through Aksu’s "exoskeletal" elements, such as the visceral pink rib overlay showcased on one of the collection’s best dresses–from a distance, it played quite the haunting optical illusion!
Details like high-necked lace collars and braiding details lent the collection a mood of Edwardian exuberance, as did the platformed oxford lace-ups. At the end of the show, as the models sashayed out looking like malevolent china dolls, the crowd responded feverishly. One of London’s finest young talents had just evolved into a superstar.