Ever since designer Martin Margiela left his fashion house to the Diesel denim conglomerate, the Maison Martin Margiela brand has been under intense scrutiny, and has received criticism from the fashion elite.
Whether or not this unshakable sense of animosity is due to a lack of authenticity or due to bad design remains in question.
This spring, however, the team behind the new house of MMM presented a collection packed with Margiela-inspired looks. Think full shoulders, odd re-imaginings, and otherworldly reconstructions.
Beginning with an uninspired button-down shirtdress, the show started off on a casual note. Within seconds, however, Margiela began to appear in fine form.
Silhouettes started morphing and proportions began growing with each successive look. High-waisted trousers became cartoonishly oversized, with waistlines jutting out from models’ sides as if they were concealing cardboard boxes within them.
Gaga-worthy statement pieces, like box-structured trench tops and sandwich-board planar jackets, looked severe yet laughable (in a good way).
Undoubtedly artistic, the collection appeared more music video-ready than street-appropriate, and lacked the personality Margiela always brought to his garments. However, the Spring 2011 collection did bring new life to MMM’s subdued eccentricity.